The Origins of Herringbone in Seed Beading & Wirework & Herringbone Seed Bead Bracelet Tutorial

The Origins of Herringbone in Seed Beading & Wirework

What Is Herringbone?

Herringbone is a pattern made from repeating angled rows that resemble the bones of a herring fish. The design appears throughout history in:

• Textiles
• Architecture
• Basket weaving
• Ancient adornment
• Metalwork
• Modern jewellery design

In beadwork, the stitch is also known as Ndebele stitch, linked to the beadwork traditions of the Ndebele people of Southern Africa. 

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Herringbone in Seed Beading

Why Beaders Love It

Herringbone stitch creates:

• Flexible fabric-like beadwork
• Beautiful movement
• Elegant texture
• Strong structural designs

It can be worked:

• Flat
• Tubular
• Twisted
• Circular
• Layered

Modern bead artists use herringbone in:

• Bracelets
• Rope necklaces
• Cuffs
• Earrings
• Sculptural beadwork

Many beaders consider it one of the most versatile stitches after peyote stitch. 

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How Herringbone Works in Seed Beading

The stitch is formed by:

1. Creating a ladder stitch base
2. Adding beads in pairs
3. Stitching through alternating bead columns

This creates the characteristic angled “V” pattern.

Tubular versions create rope-like jewellery designs that are especially popular in necklaces and bangles. 

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Tools & Supplies for Seed Bead Herringbone

Essential Supplies

• Seed beads
• Beading thread
• Beading needles
• Scissors
• Beading mat

Recommended Extras

• Thread conditioner
• Bead spinner
• Task lighting
• Storage trays
• Magnifier lamp

Best Beads

• Miyuki Delicas
• Toho seed beads
• Czech seed beads

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Herringbone in Wirework

Wireworkers adapted the herringbone structure into woven wire jewellery techniques.

In wire weaving:

• Thin wire is wrapped repeatedly around base wires
• The wrapping angles create the same repeating “V” pattern

This style is often seen in:

• Copper jewellery
• Viking knit-inspired work
• Artisan pendants
• Wire cuffs
• Bohemian jewellery

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Tools for Wirework Herringbone:

Wire:

• Copper wire
• Sterling silver wire
• Brass wire
• Artistic wire

Essential Tools:

• Round nose pliers
• Flat nose pliers
• Nylon jaw pliers
• Flush cutters
• Mandrels
• Rulers

Helpful Extras:

• Chasing hammer
• Bench block
• Polishing cloth
• Wire straightener

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How Wirework Herringbone Is Done:

Basic wire herringbone:

1. Secure base wires
2. Weave thinner wire diagonally
3. Alternate wrapping direction
4. Build repeating angled patterns

The result resembles woven textile structures.

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Seed Beading vs Wire Herringbone:

Why Herringbone Remains Popular:

Herringbone has lasted centuries because it:

• Creates beautiful texture
• Is highly versatile
• Works in many materials
• Looks intricate while remaining repetitive to stitch
• Can be minimalist or highly decorative

Whether worked in tiny seed beads or woven wire, herringbone remains one of the most recognisable and timeless jewellery-making techniques

Herringbone Seed Bead Bracelet Tutorial

With Button Clasp & Seed Bead Loop Closure

Herringbone stitch, also called Ndebele stitch, creates beautiful rows of beads that sit in a soft “V” shape. It is one of the most elegant bead weaving stitches and works beautifully for bracelets, necklaces, cuffs, and textured beadwork. The stitch is beginner-friendly once you learn the rhythm.

This tutorial will show you how to make a flat herringbone bracelet with a button clasp and seed bead loop closure.

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Materials & Tools:

Beads:

• Size 11/0 seed beads
• Optional accent beads or bugle beads
• 1 button for clasp closure

Thread & Needles

• FireLine, WildFire, KO, or Nymo thread
• Size 10 or 12 beading needle

Tools:

• Scissors
• Beading mat
• Thread conditioner (optional)
• Needle threader (optional)
• Flat nose pliers (optional for button attachment)

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Finished Bracelet Size

• Width: Approximately 1–1.5 cm
• Length: Adjustable depending on rows added

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Before You Begin:

Herringbone stitch begins with a ladder stitch base. From there, you add beads in pairs, creating the signature angled bead pattern. Keep your tension even but not overly tight.

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Step 1 — Create the Ladder Stitch Base:

Pick up 8 seed beads.

Pass back through the beads in pairs to form a ladder stitch foundation.

You should end with 4 stacks of 2 beads each.

This ladder stitch forms the base of your bracelet.

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Step 2 — Begin the First Herringbone Row:

Pick up 2 seed beads.

Skip the first bead pair and pass down through the next bead pair in the ladder base.

Then pass upward through the following bead.

Pull snugly.

The beads should sit slightly angled like a “V”.

Repeat this across the row.

Step 3 — Turn the Work

At the end of the row:

• Pass up through the final bead pair
• Flip the work around
• Begin the next row in the opposite direction

Pick up 2 beads at a time and repeat the stitch pattern.

As you continue, the beads begin forming the classic herringbone texture.

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Step 4 — Continue the Bracelet

Repeat rows until your bracelet reaches your desired wrist length.

For an average bracelet:

• 6.5–7 inches works well before adding the clasp

Try mixing:

• Metallic beads
• Matte seed beads
• Ombre colour gradients
• Gemstone accent rows

Step 5 — Add the Button Clasp

At one end of the bracelet:

1. Exit through the centre beads
2. Pick up enough seed beads to fit through the button shank or holes
3. Stitch through the button
4. Reinforce several times

Tie secure knots and weave in thread ends.

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Step 6 — Create the Seed Bead Loop

On the opposite end:

1. Exit from the centre bead pair
2. Pick up enough seed beads to comfortably fit around the button
3. Test the fit before closing
4. Stitch back through the bracelet edge
5. Reinforce several times
   

Step 5 — Add the Button Clasp

At one end of the bracelet:

1. Exit through the centre beads
2. Pick up enough seed beads to fit through the button shank or holes
3. Stitch through the button
4. Reinforce several times

Tie secure knots and weave in thread ends.

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Step 6 — Create the Seed Bead Loop

On the opposite end:

1. Exit from the centre bead pair
2. Pick up enough seed beads to comfortably fit around the button
3. Test the fit before closing
4. Stitch back through the bracelet edge
5. Reinforce several times

Step 7 — Finish the Bracelet

• Tie several half-hitch knots
• Weave thread through nearby beads
• Trim excess thread carefully

Your bracelet is now complete.

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Tips for Beautiful Herringbone Stitch:

• Keep thread tension consistent
• Use high-quality seed beads for cleaner rows
• Miyuki and Toho beads give the most even finish
• Wider bracelets simply use more bead pairs in the starting ladder row
• Tubular herringbone creates beautiful rope-style jewellery

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Common Beginner Mistakes:

Uneven Tension

Too loose creates gaps. Too tight causes curling.

Twisted Ladder Base

Make sure the starting ladder sits flat before continuing.

Skipping Beads

Double-check the thread path each row.

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Variations to Try:

• Tubular herringbone
• Twisted herringbone rope
• Bugle bead herringbone
• Gemstone herringbone bracelets
• Multi-drop herringbone
• Herringbone fringe earrings

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Video Tutorials:

These are excellent visual references for learning the stitch:

https://youtu.be/pTrNV7DUuuI?si=AXY33Q4OYXLFFr5-

https://youtu.be/ofPX7L_3E3M?si=dcZ7z9VMgVkSMREC